SignalTraffic Forums

ok guys, I just looked at the controller and noticed that the rubber stop for the arm that advances the cam shaft is very worn. So the arm is traveling a hair too far up bring the shaft a little too far to where the next interval's lobe hits the contact finger causing that indication to flicker. So I'll check the hardware stores to find something close in size to replace that part. If I can find a rubber foot that has a threaded stud so I can fasten it. I don't want to use a sticky back foot as the heat from our summer will just melt the adhesive it and it will fall off!

Have any of you guys replaced this part? and what did you use?

TheHOODLUM wrote:ok guys, I just looked at the controller and noticed that the rubber stop for the arm that advances the cam shaft is very worn. So the arm is traveling a hair too far up bring the shaft a little too far to where the next interval's lobe hits the contact finger causing that indication to flicker. So I'll check the hardware stores to find something close in size to replace that part. If I can find a rubber foot that has a threaded stud so I can fasten it. I don't want to use a sticky back foot as the heat from our summer will just melt the adhesive it and it will fall off!

Have any of you guys replaced this part? and what did you use?

Is the foot on a horizontal or vertical surface? The only time I've replaced those was on an Econolite type F, and I just used sticky rubber pads, but I can understand your concern down there in AZ! However, if it's horizontal, I don't think it would go very far even if it did come a bit loose. If it's got some sort of hole for mounting underneath it, maybe you could use a tack or a very small screw to fasten it? Just don't want it to thread through too far and come into contact with the arm.

Get me a photo and I'll get you the part.

here is a close up of the rubber stop I was talking about. It's hard to see that it is cracking and dry rotting after the millions of times the arm has hit it!

TheHOODLUM wrote:here is a close up of the rubber stop I was talking about. It's hard to see that it is cracking and dry rotting after the millions of times the arm has hit it!

It looks like that stop is adjustable, if you screw it down a couple turns, does that solve your issue??

It looks like that stop is adjustable, if you screw it down a couple turns, does that solve your issue??

no it has a flat metal nut on top of the bracket holding it there if I was to loosen it, it would fall off.

Here's some basics that may help: To start, get everything cleaned/oiled then adjust the end play of the cam for about a thumbnail clearance. The rubber bumper that you mention shouldn't be the problem. When the armature (D) swings up, the cam shouldn't move, rubber bumper or not. If it does, we're back to the clean/oil step. Clean with no oil is better than gummed up. The springs for (A) and (C) don't have very much tension and just a little gunk will cause problems.

How it works: Armature (D) swings up. Pawl (C) keeps the cam going backwards. Pawl (A) engages the cam and advances it on the downswing.

Another check (after end play) is to adjust (B) to limit cam rotation. When the armature (D) is down, there should be just a little wiggle room for cam rotation. Note that (B) should be smooth and flat. Loosen the screw, hold (D) down and give (B) a tweak up until the cam doesn't wiggle, then back off a hair and tighten the screw.

Another trick worth noting is that as the contacts wear down the clearance between the fingers and the cam get smaller. You can raise the bus bar up by putting brass washer between the bar and the three supports to lift all the fingers.

TacomaJoe wrote:Here's some basics that may help: To start, get everything cleaned/oiled then adjust the end play of the cam for about a thumbnail clearance. The rubber bumper that you mention shouldn't be the problem. When the armature (D) swings up, the cam shouldn't move, rubber bumper or not. If it does, we're back to the clean/oil step. Clean with no oil is better than gummed up. The springs for (A) and (C) don't have very much tension and just a little gunk will cause problems.

How it works: Armature (D) swings up. Pawl (C) keeps the cam going backwards. Pawl (A) engages the cam and advances it on the downswing.

Another check (after end play) is to adjust (B) to limit cam rotation. When the armature (D) is down, there should be just a little wiggle room for cam rotation. Note that (B) should be smooth and flat. Loosen the screw, hold (D) down and give (B) a tweak up until the cam doesn't wiggle, then back off a hair and tighten the screw.

Another trick worth noting is that as the contacts wear down the clearance between the fingers and the cam get smaller. You can raise the bus bar up by putting brass washer between the bar and the three supports to lift all the fingers.

Outstanding advice! and I will print this and get right on it this afternoon. And the last note about the fingers getting lower also makes sense as if the finger was a hair higher it wouldn't touch, but also there is play in the shaft so I will go through it, thank you Joe for the tips you really know these totally!

And I'm pleased to report back that with the tweaking of "B" the flickering issue has been solved! the lights are now working as they should! that was very good advice joe thank you!

TheHOODLUM wrote:And I'm pleased to report back that with the tweaking of "B" the flickering issue has been solved! the lights are now working as they should! that was very good advice joe thank you!

Good deal, Joe has helped me alot with my E/M controller. There's not many questions he can't answer when it comes to these controllers.

Glad you got it running the way it should.