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by **vaughnsimon** on Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:55 pm

64ragtop wrote:I simply grounded my cabinet (an isolated cable going all the way back to the service panel ground spike) and that solved the problem completely.

Simpler yet, use a proper three wire power cord connected to a tested 3-wire outlet. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Receptacle_tester

by **Macsignals** on Tue Jul 02, 2013 8:26 pm

Crunge98 wrote:What about the new code where they are not bonding them.

Only sub panels like it's always been, which if you have a disconnect between your meter and breaker panel means your main panel becomes a sub.

by **DigitalMCO** on Wed Jul 03, 2013 2:53 pm

So from what I can see regarding this back panel is the Line (Hot) wire in red goes into the left side of the AC filter and exits on the right. Above the exiting red wire on the right are two black wires attached to a separated terminal, this also feeds power to a couple of other terminals at the top of the panel.

Now on the back just to the right of the AC receptacle you can see two black wires attached to a nut that is used to mount the metal filter body to the back panel. One of those wires makes its way down to the bottom of the panel to the Common (Neutral) connection. The other wire goes over to the left and connects to the ground of the AC receptacle at which point a jumper takes it over to the neutral side of the outlet. At no point could I find any grounding connection to that outlet.

So, in the interest of safety, can I just remove the Line filter altogether. This may be in fact a defective device which is why I received a shock in the first place OR should I just disconnect the Neutral connection from the outlet and run a ground line to it? At least this eliminates my HOT grounding issue.

by **notMUTCDcompliant** on Wed Jul 03, 2013 3:03 pm

My suggestion, remove the filter (from the power circuit). You can physically leave it there, but I would remove it wiring wise

by **Macsignals** on Wed Jul 03, 2013 5:50 pm

notMUTCDcompliant wrote:My suggestion, remove the filter (from the power circuit). You can physically leave it there, but I would remove it wiring wise

This. Just bypass the filter and disconnect it completely.

by **DigitalMCO** on Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:35 pm

Thanks for the advice gentlemen, much appreciated. :good:

I also discovered another issue while tracing the wiring. It seems one of my timer dials has some melted and bare wire showing behind the dial motor. Yet another safety issue that needs my attention. You'd think after 50 some odd years of continuous service that this gear would have held up better. :grin:

Next time when I buy a controller from a guy out of the back of a pickup truck I should really ask about the extended warranty

by **TacomaJoe** on Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:07 pm

It probably worked fine mounted on the pole. Take if off, shake it up, and you find a new set of problems. We have more problems after opening a cabinet door, than occur from natural causes. Moving a harness or bumping things around and oddly enough, you start the next issue, maybe not today, but it's coming. . . .

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