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by **LarryC39** on Sat Nov 03, 2012 11:20 pm

That Aldridge Guy wrote:BTW, even if it was painted during manufacture, do I have to strip the paint off before I apply primer?
I shall head down to Bunnings or some other paint supplier & get the required colours!

Bare metal, yes. Painted metal, just scuff it so the paint is not shiny.

by **That Aldridge Guy** on Sun Nov 04, 2012 12:30 am

LarryC39 wrote:
That Aldridge Guy wrote:BTW, even if it was painted during manufacture, do I have to strip the paint off before I apply primer?
I shall head down to Bunnings or some other paint supplier & get the required colours!

Bare metal, yes. Painted metal, just scuff it so the paint is not shiny.

Or use a heat gun or liquid paint stripper. I'd recommend Diggers Paint Stripper Plus!

For the bulb holders, I need to use a soldering iron to remove the old wires.

by **That Aldridge Guy** on Thu Nov 08, 2012 5:18 am

Been to Bunnings today & I've checked the prices on some of my required items:

Diggers Paint Stripper - $8.62 (small can)
Diggers Paint Stripper Plus - $19.98 (medium can)
White Knight Squirts (golden yellow) - $7.95
White Knight Rust Guard (golden yellow) - $15.90

Also been to [*Short for Richard*] Smith, but currently they don't sell rubber grommets as seen in its annual catalog, only online. :glare:

by **That Aldridge Guy** on Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:02 am

Went to another Bunnings with my mother & bought two new wing nuts, two long bolts, two washers, some White Knight spray paint (black & golden yellow), professional grade masking tape and other bits & bobs.
I scuffed the visors, lens frames & body with Grade 400 emery paper, which is most suitable.
Today, I used black for the visors, lens frames, divider plate & the very front of the body.

Next weekend, I'll give the sides & rear of the body golden yellow! Then I'll replace the wiring of the bulb holders, put everything back together & wire it up! It's just like taking a journey back to the 1970s! :grin:

by **eagleyes** on Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:31 am

For the bulb holders, I need to use a soldering iron to remove the old wires.

Just a tip from an old electronics guy. Clean the solder flux off with alcohol after soldering is completed to prevent the joint from oxidizing and degrading. You want this repair to last!

by **That Aldridge Guy** on Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:06 am

eagleyes wrote:Just a tip from an old electronics guy. Clean the solder flux off with alcohol after soldering is completed to prevent the joint from oxidizing and degrading. You want this repair to last!

Thanks in advance! Which alcohol is most suitable? Shellite or Methylated Spirits perhaps? :glare:

I've got 'pre-fluxed' resin cored solder at home BTW.

by **eagleyes** on Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:20 pm

I suspect anything you have available will work. The object of the exercise is to dissolve the flux so you can brush it away cleanly. I've used rubbing alcohol (disinfectant) and it works. The main thing is to be thorough. Good luck! :thumbsup:

by **BigTbird1974** on Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:44 pm

eagleyes wrote:Just a tip from an old electronics guy. Clean the solder flux off with alcohol after soldering is completed to prevent the joint from oxidizing and degrading. You want this repair to last!

With all due respect Eric, the only reason I can think of that it would be necessary to remove flux after soldering, is if the WRONG kind of flux (and solder) got used...? :scratch:

ANY electrical connection should be made with rosin-core (or hi-tech equivalent?) electronic solder, any residue of which is totally inert to the connection. (as can be seen in Ryan's pics -- obviously no unusual "corrosion" present, though some of the original rosin flux clearly remains)

Now, on the very unfortunate chance that some unknowing individual would have used "plumbing/plumber's" solder (otherwise called "acid-core", OR a solid-wire solder with a separately applied flux) on the poor thing somewhere along the line...yes, THAT will most definitely turn everything into a greenish-white powdery MESS of uselessness, after a decade or two... :rob:

Removing rosin flux residue (any kind of alcohol works BTW...rubbing, denatured, even Windex!) could make it prettier I suppose...especially when resoldering onto 'old work', it can be helpful to remove excess old flux first, which will just re-melt and re-flow (and smoke like h*ll while doing so :Phil:

) into the new connection otherwise. :good:

by **That Aldridge Guy** on Sat Nov 17, 2012 7:05 pm

Golden Yellow has been applied to the top, sides & back of the body. Although the black paint is still visible, it'll be completely covered with a few more coats! That's why I should've applied undercoat first to speed up the process!

by **2070** on Sat Nov 17, 2012 7:24 pm

It is good to see that the Yellow is just as bad in other countries, Too........ :crazy:

It should look great when you are finished!!! :good:

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