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by **TheHOODLUM** on Sun May 12, 2013 6:10 pm

I decided to post this here rather than in my photos post. Yesterday after I got my lights running I noticed that the phase1 green was coming on when phase2 went to yellow. Then I remembered when I got the controller last year the camshaft fell out in shipping since the screw was missing because the hole was stripped. Back then Tacoma Joe was very nice to send me 2 new cams. I discovered the phase1 green cam had lobe 12 missing. I carefully took the shaft out and took the cams off keeping them in order so I wouldn't put them back wrong. I cut off the correct lobes on the new cam and put it all back together and the controller is now sequencing properly. The only issue left is that some of the reds and greens flicker off slightly when the shaft advances. I think that could be caused by the cams being worn between the lobes.

Then I was thinking that every time I want to turn it on and off I have to open the cabinet. So I ended up getting a new remote switch like the one I sent to another club member a few months ago. It works well even with the receiver/switch in the cabinet.

by **notMUTCDcompliant** on Sun May 12, 2013 6:16 pm

Sounds like either the fingers need to be tensioned or your have dirty contacts... either of those would cause flicker

by **TacomaJoe** on Sun May 12, 2013 7:17 pm

Sounds like either the fingers need to be tensioned or your have dirty contacts... either of those would cause flicker

Yep. When the armature swings up and bangs into the upper bumper the vibration bounces the contacts enough to loose contact. Cleaning and the correct tension will fix it.

by **TheHOODLUM** on Sun May 12, 2013 11:49 pm

I'll look them over tomorrow. I also noticed that the blades riding on the cams are not fully centered on the cams so I will see if I can get those in line.

by **3Mfanatic** on Tue May 14, 2013 8:22 pm

TacomaJoe wrote:Yep. When the armature swings up and bangs into the upper bumper the vibration bounces the contacts enough to loose contact. Cleaning and the correct tension will fix it.

Would even a slight flicker be the result of this? If so it sounds like I need to do some cleaning and tightening.

by **TheHOODLUM** on Tue May 14, 2013 11:08 pm

this evening while running the lights I wondered if I could set it up to give an all red clearance. The controller advances the shaft before the yellows so if it went yellow at the first advance then red then the other phase green. I know I would need to replace the cams and it would be a big deal I also think I would need to regear the timer to slow it down since it cycles too fast.

by **TheHOODLUM** on Sun May 26, 2013 4:46 pm

Today I decided to clean the contacts in my controller. They have normal wear but have plenty of life left especially since I only run it for a few hours a day. I gave them a good cleaning and washed them with rubbing alcohol. The issue with the phase 1 red flickering when phase 2 turns to yellow is still doing that. I saw why, when the cam shaft advances to change p2 to yellow the lobe to turn p1 red off at the next interval hits the contact blade just enough to make it open for an instant causing the red to flicker. I tried tightening the contact blade but then the cam shaft got stuck so I backed off on the adjustment but I guess there probably isn't anything I can do to correct this so I'll live with it.

by **mcha9797** on Sun May 26, 2013 5:28 pm

TheHOODLUM wrote:Today I decided to clean the contacts in my controller. They have normal wear but have plenty of life left especially since I only run it for a few hours a day. I gave them a good cleaning and washed them with rubbing alcohol. The issue with the phase 1 red flickering when phase 2 turns to yellow is still doing that. I saw why, when the cam shaft advances to change p2 to yellow the lobe to turn p1 red off at the next interval hits the contact blade just enough to make it open for an instant causing the red to flicker. I tried tightening the contact blade but then the cam shaft got stuck so I backed off on the adjustment but I guess there probably isn't anything I can do to correct this so I'll live with it.

I had a similar problem with my Marbelite E/M controller and found that the armature's upper bumper pin was loose, which was allowing the cam to advance a little too far on some interval's. I have never owned an EF-20, but I assume that they are similar to a Marbelite E/M.

by **steven1981** on Sun May 26, 2013 5:57 pm

I would leave that as-is, since that gives the signal controller character in my opinion. Unless the issue is bad, then I think minor flickers in signal indications are neat to see when they're wired to such a signal controller. I used to see those from time to time when mechanical signal controllers were still the norm 14 to 16 years ago in New York City.

In any case, as long as you take good care of it, then I am sure it'll continue to work like a champ for many more years to come. For my signal controllers, I normally try to clean both at least once a year (even though they are not functional 24/7 as they once were on the streets). Just a good habit in my opinion.

by **TheHOODLUM** on Mon May 27, 2013 12:11 am

Mark made a good point and I'll look at that to see if that may be adjustable. And Steven is right as well to probably leave it alone if it's not fixable since that is the way E/M controllers are.

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